What all start-ups need to know
Developing a new cosmetic product involves many different steps and detailed planning to ensure that the planned product is developed and placed on the market exactly as envisioned. Although there would be some variation in the steps based on individual brief and product type, the general path is the same. Some key areas that are vital include cost of product, selling price point, target market, target launch date, intended use, key claims and ingredients, further product testing, target retailers, and required certifications. The guide below should give an overview of the process and a starting point for any brand owner thinking about launching a product.
Initial Considerations to make sure the product idea is viable:
Target Launch Date
For most products, development process from concept to filled goods takes around 12-18 months. This period accounts for initial brief overview, submissions, approval, stability, compatibility, and microbial challenge tests. There could of course be some extra testing that client would need that can potentially add onto this estimate (user trials, clinical trials). When considering a target launch date, development process is a key part and cannot be rushed.
Target User and Product Use
A successful product development should have a clear intended user from the start. For example, if a moisturiser is being briefed it is essential to know to what user group it will be marketed to in order to establish what ingredients, claims, odour, and texture is needed. Product use is just as important as there are products, like face masks, that can be leave on or rinse off and carry varying frequencies of use, which need to be specified from the start to inform the formulator so they consider this in their creation process.
Target Market
This is an extremely important decision to make when thinking about launching a product. Different regions in the world have different rules set for allowed product claims and ingredient use. For instance, anti-dandruff shampoo would be considered a cosmetic product in EU, but the same product in US would be considered Over the Counter (OTC) drug. Another good example is cosmetic ingredient compliance in China. This region has Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC) and if ingredient INCI name cannot be found there, it would not be allowed to sell that finished product in China (unless the raw material is registered). A cosmetic safety assessor and responsible person should be able to help you navigate different markets and advise on what needs to be changed.
Cost of Product
When considering what product to develop in terms of active ingredients and base (hydrous or anhydrous) and product size, it would be a good idea to have a look at competitors and investigate how much they are charging for similar products. This exercise could give you an idea of how much you would like to spend on the product itself and estimate the profit margin. It is essential to have an idea of first order size and potential cost per unit for the formulator and manufacturer so they can advise on what ingredients can be chosen and things that can be achievable or what adjustments need to be made (to number of actives, order size, pack size, target cost).
Product Considerations:
Product Requirements
It is essential to detail ideas on product’s appearance, odour, and texture. These might be altered during the development process, but it is imperative for a chemist to have a starting point when creating initial submission and looking at costs so a faster approval can be achieved.
Key claims and any key ingredients need to be specified from the start so your cosmetic chemist knows what to include; if a specific claim needs to be achieved, there is a clear idea of what actives can be used to achieve it. Some claims cannot be achieved only by using certain ingredients and would require clinical and user trials. This needs to be considered when briefing the product to a chemist.
If the brand has set ethos, they need to be disclosed during product briefing to ensure the developed product aligns with them. This includes vegan, vegetarian, sulphate free, sustainable palm, specific natural origin and any certifications that the product will need to achieve (Leaping Bunny, The Vegan Society, PETA etc.). If these ethos and specific requirements are not given from the start, there is a risk that product will not comply with them and therefore will have to be reformulated down the line. It is also worth having a look at possible retailers for the brand and what ethos they carry to ensure that products will be accepted.
Packaging
It is essential to select packaging that suits the intended product. For example, a facial serum would not be packed into a jar because its’ consistency is too runny, would not be user friendly and could lead to leakage problems. It is also important to select an adequate pack size for a product, so it is not so small that it makes customers doubt the value for money or so big that it costs a lot more and does not drive frequent repeat purchases. The best idea is to look around in the market to see what packaging sizes are trending for specific product types and start from there.
Choosing the right partner
One of the biggest decisions is choosing the right partner to help make the brand successful. If the right formulator and manufacturer is chosen it will ensure that the products will be made to the highest quality by experts in the field who will provide guidance and advice throughout the process.
We at Jarvis Cosmetic Developments are proud of our knowledgeable expert teams that work together to help brands from the product concept stage to the finished product. We pride ourselves on our commitment to ensuring high quality standards are met with every unit produced. This is ensured by our certifications which include ISO 22716, ISO 14001 and ISO 9001. We also believe in building genuine partnerships with brands, so we get to know them better which helps in the development process and successful ongoing relationships. We are experts in creating innovative, niche products for any start-up or existing brands of any size.
All the above-mentioned aspects of product development are important to successfully launch a product. It does not matter if it is the first product or one of many – clear planning and detailed consideration needs to be done to ensure nothing important is missed and that the product fulfils the expectations of the target customer and the brand itself.
If you have a brand and can answer all the questions above, why not get in touch with us to discuss your product brief and a potential partnership!
