Skin Hydration

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Hydration is a key element for maintaining healthy, supple, and youthful-looking skin. Hydrated skin is plump, glowing, and has a more even tone. But with so many different ingredients and products on the market, it can be hard to know which ones are the most effective for hydrating your skin. 

 Skin hydration and skin moisturising are both important for maintaining healthy skin, but they refer to different processes. Skin hydration refers to the water content of the skin, which is essential for maintaining its elasticity, suppleness, and overall health. Skin moisturizing, on the other hand, refers to the process of adding oils or other substances to the skin to help prevent water loss and maintain hydration.  

Moisturising ingredients tend to leave an occlusive film on skin, which helps to lock in the moisture[1]. Hydrating ingredients are non-occlusive and bring moisture to the skin. Both are important for maintaining healthy, youthful skin, but they involve different types of ingredients. Let’s dive into the most popular, effective hydrating ingredients in skincare products:

Hyaluronic Acid

This is perhaps the most well-known hydrating ingredient in skincare. Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the body that helps to retain water in the skin[2]. As we age, the amount of hyaluronic acid in our skin decreases, leading to dryness and fine lines. Hyaluronic acid works by binding to water molecules and keeping them in the skin, which helps to plump up the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. This ingredient is suitable for all skin types, and it can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water[3]. There are different grades of hyaluronic acid that work in different ways: high molecular weight hyaluronic acid works on the skin surface, while the smaller molecular weight grades go deeper into the skin, providing plumping benefits, alongside hydration[4].

Glycerine

A popular hygroscopic humectant, which means that it captures moisture from the environment. Glycerine is a clear, odourless liquid that is derived from plant oils. It works by attracting hydration into the skin from the environment[5]. It is the most cost-effective humectant on the skincare market. In addition to its hydrating properties, glycerine has been shown to have other benefits for the skin. It can help to improve the skin’s barrier function, which is important for preventing moisture loss and protecting against environmental stressors. Glycerine has also been shown to have anti-inflammatory effects, which can help to soothe and calm irritated skin. Glycerine is a well-tolerated ingredient that is suitable for use on most skin types, including sensitive skin. 

Aloe Vera

A natural plant extract that has been used for centuries for its healing properties. It is also a great hydrating ingredient for the skin. Aloe vera contains polysaccharides, which help to draw moisture into the skin and keep it hydrated. It also works by forming a protective layer on the skin, which helps to lock in moisture and prevent dehydration. This ingredient is also anti-inflammatory and soothing, making it a great choice for sensitive skin[6].  People also use aloe vera to soothe skin after exposure to the sun. 

Sodium PCA

Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA) is a naturally occurring humectant found in the skin’s natural moisturizing factors (NMF)[7] [8]. It helps to draw moisture from the environment into the skin and is especially effective in dry climates. Sodium PCA is also an amino acid, meaning it can help to strengthen the skin’s natural defences.  

Urea

A great ingredient to ensure that the skin is hydrated, which is also part of skin’s NMF[9] [10]. It is often neglected due to negative connotation, even though this is a very powerful hydrator. It works by attracting water from the environment and drawing it into the skin, similar to previously discussed glycerine. Urea also has exfoliating benefits[11], when used at higher levels, where it increases desquamation rate, ensuring skin looks healthier and more even. This helps to keep the skin soft, supple and hydrated throughout the day. 

Betaine

Betaine is a type of osmolyte, which means that it helps to regulate water balance within cells, which can help to prevent dehydration[12]. It works by attracting water to the skin and increasing the moisture content of the skin’s outermost layer[13] [14]. This helps to improve the texture and appearance of the skin, making it look and feel softer and smoother.

While these are some of the most popular hydrating ingredients in skincare, there are many others out there that can be just as effective. When choosing skincare products, it’s important to look for ingredients that suit your skin type and address your specific concerns. It is also important to look for products that had testing done to substantiate the hydration claim. Consumer trial and instrumental measurement are two commonly used tests. Consumer trial is done by giving people a product to use for a certain period and then giving them a questionnaire to fill out based on their opinion about how the skin was improved while using the product. The Instrumental method to verify the hydration claim would be done using a corneometer. This test involves taking a measurement of skin hydration before and after the product is used to give an indication of how much the skin hydration has improved. These tests would put an extra cost on the product, but they would also reassure the consumer that the product does support skin hydration.

In conclusion, hydration is a crucial part of any skincare routine. Using products that contain hydrating ingredients can help to keep your skin looking healthy, plump, and glowing. When hydrating and moisturising ingredients are used together, the combination guarantees that the hydration is sealed into the skin, making the effect last longer. When choosing a hydrating product, it is important to look for claim substantiation done through consumer trial or instrumental method for your peace of mind. 

Jarvis and Skin Hydration

Whilst there is no doubt that skin hydration is a key element in any skincare routine it is important to conduct informed and focused research while designing a product to add to your brand. Ensuring the product is both effective and fits with your brand is key.  If you would like to discuss this topic further with our industry experts, please get in touch.

References

  1.  https://www.allure.com/story/do-oils-hydrate-skin-hair#:~:text=One%20of%20the%20ways%20oils,seal%20in%20hydration%2C%20Robinson%20says
  2. https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/articles/22915-hyaluronic-acid#:~:text=It%20helps%20keep%20things%20hydrated,%2C%20lotions%2C%20ointments%20and%20serums
  3. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2778417/#:~:text=Hyaluronic%20acid%20is%20extremely%20hydrophilic,times%20its%20weight%20in%20water.
  4. https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/hyaluronic-acid#science-says 
  5. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9205919/ 
  6. https://www.byrdie.com/aloe-vera-for-skin-4777483 
  7. https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredients/ingredient-sodium-pca.html 
  8. https://incidecoder.com/ingredients/sodium-pca 
  9. https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/urea-in-lotion#benefits 
  10. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27168272/ 
  11. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30378232/ 
  12. https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredients/ingredient-betaine.html 
  13. https://enclaire.in/article/betaine-for-skin-top-benefits-and-uses 
  14. https://www.ema.europa.eu/en/documents/scientific-discussion/cystadane-epar-scientific-discussion_en.pdf 

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