Retinoids are a large and diverse group of compounds ultimately derived from Vitamin A, many of which are used on skin and included in skin care products. First named in 1920¹, vitamin A is essential for our normal growth, reproduction, immunity and vision. Nowadays, various forms of retinoid are used extensively in skin care products to help people tackle signs of ageing, acne control, regulating cell growth, pigmentation spot treatment, as well as boosting production of collagen and elastin.
Alongside the many benefits, there are also numerous side effects that can arise due to misuse, incorrectly chosen strength, and individual skin sensitivity – most often when using retinol. As a result, alternatives to retinol have been explored and extensively tested. The use of these retinol alternatives has been identified by the experts² as one of the skincare trends to follow in 2022 and beyond.
In this article, we discuss the popular forms of retinoids that are used in the personal care industry, as well as possible alternatives.
How Do Retinoids Work?
Firstly, let’s look at how retinoids work on our skin. They have been shown to have significant influence on important cellular processes within our skin. Some of these processes are:
• Protecting against degradation of collagen and inhibiting activity of metalloproteinases, which are responsible for degradation of the extracellular matrix³
• Improving and stimulating collagen I and III production whilst inhibiting the breakdown of collagen that already exists⁴
• Promoting skin shedding and new skin cell development to renew the skin
Different strengths of retinoids are available, but many of the higher strength versions are only supplied on prescription as they are not allowed in cosmetic formulations. An example of this is retinoic acid which is 100 times as potent as the retinol-containing products sold without prescription⁵. The retinoids available for use in cosmetic formulations are still highly effective but, as they need to be converted within the skin first, their benefit and visible effects can take longer to develop.
Most Popular Retinoids in Cosmetics
Now we know how they work, here are some of the most popular retinoids you will find in cosmetics. (Note: not all vitamin A derivatives are allowed in cosmetics.)
Retinyl Esters

The most used form of retinoid permitted for use in cosmetics is a long-chain ester of vitamin A called retinyl palmitate. Retinyl esters are naturally occurring within the skin and represent a retinoid storage form⁶. In cosmetics, retinyl palmitate is absorbed through the skin and then converted to retinol, and then retinoic acid.
In addition to being easily absorbed into the skin, it also provides antioxidant protection to the skin. The wrinkle reduction properties are proven to reduce the signs of aging making it a very important ingredient in our cosmetic chemist’s toolbox.
Retinaldehyde (Retinal)

Retinaldehyde is well-known for its ability to penetrate the deeper layers of skin. It is used in many formulations, again, for its proven antiwrinkle and skin smoothing benefits, as well as improved hydration, reduced trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and photoaging effects.
It has also shown to be an effective antimicrobial agent. In this study of retinoic acid (RA), retinol (ROL) and retinaldehyde (RAL), of the three retinoids tested, only RAL showed a significant in vitro antibacterial activity⁷. Moreover, although common retinoid side effects can still be experienced, retinaldehyde has been found to be gentler on the skin than other forms of retinol⁸.
Retinol

Retinol is recognised for its ability to improve overall skin condition⁹. This includes reducing intensity of pigmentation and redness, and increasing skin suppleness, elasticity, radiance, and softness. It also helps with photoaging by improving the appearance of wrinkles and dark spots.
It is essential for normal regulation of cell growth and differentiation¹⁰; it regulates growth of epithelial cells, maintaining normal shape and function. By regularly encouraging surface skin cells to turn over, it makes room for new cell growth underneath.
Side Effects of Retinoid Use
Even though retinoids have been praised for their results, there are some risks that users may experience when applying these products. Some of these side effects are:
• Dryness and irritation
• Skin colour changes
• Sensitivity to sunlight (SPF must be worn and reapplied at least every 2 hours)
• Redness, swelling, crusting, or blistering¹¹
• Enhanced skin sensitivity
These side effects have prompted the continued search for alternatives to retinoids to achieve the same benefits but with a lower risk of unpleasant side effects.
Alternatives to Retinol
Bakuchiol
Topical retinoids are not for every skin type, so people with sensitive skin tend to avoid them in the products they use. This is where bakuchiol, as a cosmetic ingredient, has become a popular replacement. It is has shown that it is less irritating than retinol but still delivers the extensive list of skin care benefits attributed to retinol.
Obtained from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia plant which originates from Eastern Asia, bakuchiol is a widely tested ingredient that has data to support similar effects to retinol. These include reduction of hyperpigmentation, control of sebum production, reduction of multiple signs of aging, and acne control.
Although it has no structural similarity to retinoids, it functions following similar regulation of gene expression. Its retinol-like functionality sees the upregulation of types I and IV collagen and the stimulation of type III collagen in the mature fibroblast model¹².
Rosehip Oil
Sourced from the seeds of Rosa canina, a native plant of South Africa and Europe, rosehip oil contains vitamin C and A and is full of antioxidants. These elements contribute to its anti-aging and skin healing properties.
Easily absorbed through the skin, rosehip oil works quickly to rebuild scars, age spots, burns, stretch marks, and uneven pigmentation¹³. Vitamin C also supports collagen production, which helps reduce wrinkling and prevents dry skin.
Bidens Pilosa
Bidens Pilosa is a species of the Asteraceae family, originating in South America¹⁴. Due to its retinoid-like activity, it is considered as an effective alternative in cosmetics. It works by binding to the RXR receptor and reducing the RAR expression by 20% while increasing the RXR expression by 119%. This results in effective anti-aging and anti-photoaging action like retinoids.
In addition to its anti-aging properties, Bidens Pilosa also provides a soothing effect, regulates skin proliferation and differentiation, and reduces hyperpigmentation. Due to its increased skin turnover, it removes existing melanin which aids hyperpigmentation reduction¹⁵.
Jarvis Cosmetic Developments & Retinoids
While the benefits brought to skin care consumers are proven and clear to see, it is really promising to see the development of gentler alternatives which produce similar, and sometimes even superior, results for the wide variety of skin types.
Ultimately, everyone must find what works best for their skin and although this might take some trial and error, there are plenty of options out there. If you would like to discuss this topic further with our industry experts, please get in touch.
References
¹https://www.jstor.org/stable/48508230
²https://www.vogue.com/article/the-skin-care-trends-to-know-in-2022-according-to-the-experts
³https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6791161/
⁶https://www.jlr.org/article/S0022-2275(20)42124-8/fulltext
⁷https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12218231/
⁸https://thedermreview.com/retinaldehyde/
⁹https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/jocd.13040
¹⁰https://www.molbiolcell.org/doi/10.1091/mbc.e05-06-0519
¹¹https://www.webmd.com/beauty/retinoid-gel-and-cream-treatments
¹²https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/ics.12117